जंगली आँपको अचार

Our kitchen chef, Barish Gahatraj, writes about a small variety of mango found wild in the forest around his village in Udayapur, very juicy and often turned into pickle.

ग्रीष्मयाम मा पाइने यो आँप विशेषत: जङ्गलमा पाइन्छ। गाउँघरतिर पाइने आँप भन्दा यो जंगली आँप एकदमै सानो, रसिलो, अनि खरिलो हुनेगर्दछ | यसमा गुदी कम तर रसको मात्रा चै धेरै पाइन्छ । गाउँघर तिर फल्ने आँपको तुलानामा अलि अगाडी नै पाक्ने यो जंगली आँप काँचोमा एकदमै अमिलो र पाकेपछि लाजवाफ गुलियो हुन्छ । 

सामान्यतया हाम्रो घरतिर यो जंगली आँप काँचो हुँदै अचार बनाउने प्रचलन छ । यसको अचार बनाउदा पहिला यसलाई 4-5 घन्टा घाममा सुकाइन्छ । अनि तोरीको तेल, तोरीकै छोप र मसलाहरु को प्रयोग गरेर यसलाई मोलिन्छ र जार मा गाढेर राखिन्छ । प्रत्यक दिन अचारलाई घाममा सुकाउनु पर्दछ । यसरी बनाएको जंगली आँपको अचार एक्दमै अमिलो, मिठो र धेरै समय सम्म राखेर खान मिल्ने हुनेरहेछ । 

रैथाने-भाइ बारिश

Niguro Salad

You may have noticed some new greens on the vegetable stalls, with a bit of a funny shape that resembles the spiral end of a violin. Those are wild fiddlehead ferns, niguro or niuro in Nepali. Collected in the forest, they are only available at this time of year. At Raithaane, we turn them into a delicious salad, mixed with roasted baby potatoes, green soyabeans, sesame ground and roasted mustard oil.

Frozen Juju Dhau and Mango

To celebrate the mango season and the warm temperatures, nothing can beat our frozen juju dhau and mango! This ice-cream-like treat is made from two ingredients: juju dhau, the famous creamy yogurt from Bhaktapur, and of course, mangoes. We use Nepali mangoes only, sourced from our partner Green Growth. We top our frozen dessert with tsampa (roasted Himalayan barley flour) crumble and honey.

For the love of mangoes!

Maldaha Mangoes. Photo Courtesy: GreenGrowth Online.

Mango (Mangifera indica) is native to South Asia, more precisely to eastern India and Burma, and is deeply rooted into the Nepali culture. The leaves, bark, seeds, and fruits of the mango tree have been used for cultural and religious rituals, auspicious offering, as well as in traditional medicine for centuries. Historical old mango orchards have been maintained in the hills and terai as bagaicha (village gardens), a symbol of social prestige, but are nowadays severely threatened due to conversion to modern orchards.

The mango season in Nepal starts in summer, first with imported fruits from India, later joined by locally produced ones. Fruits stalls are flooded with mangoes of different shapes, colors, and sizes, showing the high genetic diversity. Among mangoes produced in Nepal, those you will find in the market in urban areas are commercial cultivars of Indian origin, whereas local cultivars are unlikely to be found.

Indian cultivars tend to replace local cultivars because they are more lucrative for farmers. This is especially true in the terai and lower hills, where farmers have access to the formal research system that promotes commercial mango cultivation. Some of the noteworthy cultivars are the very high quality and expensive Alfonso, the bright yellow-orange early maturing Bombay yellow, the elongated fibreless Dashehari, or the more common and beloved Maldaha.

Local cultivars are mostly found in village orchards and sacred grooves, along riverbanks and forest edges. They adapt better to dry and marginal lands, to higher altitude, and are grown for fruits, as well as fodder, fuelwood, and shade purposes. Farmers have given them precise and peculiar names, in their own language, a manner for them to maintain their cultivars distinct from others. The most popular, found in the low hills and terai, are Supare (a small fruit with a betel-nut shape) and Lahare (a cluster of chained fruits). Local mangoes are used in many ways in traditional cuisines of the terai and mid-hills. For instance, green mangoes are grounded into a condiment named Amchurna. The ripe pulp is cooked, spread and sun-dried to make Maadaa, a chewy fruit leather, an ancient method of preserving fruits. Peeled, sliced green mangoes are mixed with salt and spices to make a popular chutney and the sweet Jarmale of terai is used as a salad or pickle.

Where to get mangoes produced in Nepal

  • Ask your local vendors! Many of them do have Nepali mangoes, sold side by side with Indian ones.
  • Green Growth
  • Kathmandu Organics
  • Many food shops and brands focusing on selling local and organic produces have popped up around the city